Before you begin drain installing do this







Before you begin drain installing do this

Local building laws and procedures have to be complied with whenever you execute drainage or pipework repairs and fitting by yourself.

If you are changing your current sewage, or installing a new system, you will most definitely be asked to show detailed designs of the implementation that you have in mind and it will need to be overseen as the work moves forward to ensure that it is compliant with local building rules. However, you will probably not have to inform the Local Authority for replacement of damaged parts or sections of drainage as permission will have already been granted for the initial installation.

Surface water is basically rain. In older properties this surface water can find its way into the foul water drainage system, but more generally it can also end up in a watercourse, surface water sewer or soakaway. In a system combining both functions, the rainwater pipes clear out into the dirty water drains through the gully traps that prevent fetid air from sneaking out of the drains. But modern systems are especially created so that dirty water and surface water remain separate. It is extremely important to ensure that you do not connect foul water to a surface water sewage system. If you have doubts about your house’s drainage system, you can get help from the Building Control Department before you begin any work.

Before starting your work, finalise the routes the waste pipes would take. Sewage pipes must be aligned as straight as possible, with inspection chambers at short intervals. You should not make your pipe runs very steep although some gradient is necessary. Use the surveyor’s site level to calculate the drain fall over the complete system. In the absence of one of these, create a datum point and set levels with a hosepipe filled with water and compute the fall from the datum in this manner.

Be very careful not to excavate too close to your building, as you may undermine the foundation and cause a structural collapse. The substructure of the building should not be undermined by your digging if the drain runs parallel to it.

When fitting in a new drainage system, you should not dig the ditch too long before placing the pipe as the trench could collapse. You should attempt to get the pipes laid as soon as possible and, after inspection and checking, you should back fill the ditch.

The ditch may need to be supported depending on the depth and soil conditions. Take he utmost care when doing this work. If you are not entirely confident of the stability of the ditch you should add support. The ditch should be narrow, but spacious enough for people to work with any required tools. The bottom of the trench must be smooth and clean, free of any objects that make it uneven such as stones or bricks. You may have to bring in the right type of material for the bottom of the trench if the one that’s already there is not proper.

Bricks and/or any other sturdy material should never be used to prop up the pipe in the ditch. In fact they should be never used as support as they can damage the pipe as they will focus pressure into a small area. The bedding should be properly compacted with hollows made to accommodate the joints in the pipes. The support should be smooth and even, from the beginning of the pipe to its end.

An important criteria for pipe layout is that you should be able to access any point with a drain rod to clear blockages. So that is why a run of drains should be as straight as possible between two points or inspection chambers. An inspection chamber should be present at places where the pipework changes its direction, this is important so that it remains accessible to drain rods and they do not need to go around corners.

If you follow this guidance, drainage and DIY plumbing can be within the range of the most DIY enthusiasts.

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